Watch Glossary

A

A.H.P.

Automatic High Precision - our latest movement. A swinging rotor drives a mini-generator. Its electric power is stored in a capacitor, which supplies energy to the quartz-controlled integrated circuit.

A.S.S.

Servo-controlled motor drive. The system, integrated in the circuit, lengthens the duration of motor impulse when the mechanism meets resistance (during date-change for example) and reverts to the normal duration when the resistance ends. The technique increases battery life by 30%.

Alarm

A watch feature that sounds an alarm at pre-set time or at regular intervals.

Altimeter

A function that provides altitude by responding to changes in barometric pressure, commonly found in pilot watches. Note that inside a pressurized airplane cabin, the altimeter will register as if on land.

Analog Digital

A watch that has both a digital display and hands of a conventional watch. Usually featured on sport watch styles.

Analog quartz

The most commonly-used term in referring to any analog timepiece that operates on a battery or on solar power and is regulated by a quartz crystal.

Analog Watch

A watch with a dial, hands, and numbers or markers that present a total display of a 12-hour time span.

Atmosphere (Atm)

Unit of pressure used in watch making to indicate water-resistance.

Atomic time standard

Provided by the U.S. National Institute of Standards and Technology, Time and Frequency Division, Boulder, Colorado, atomic time is measured through vibrations of atoms in a metal isotope that resembles mercury. The result is extremely accurate time that can be measured on instruments. Radio waves transmit this exact time throughout North America and some "atomic" watches can receive them and correct to the exact time. To synchronize your watch with atomic standard time, call (303) 499-7111.

Auto repeat timer

A feature that allows for continuous operation of a countdown timer. If timer function is set at one hour and started, it will countdown to zero, beep with a warning signal and immediately return to the preset time and start the countdown again. This would continue until stop button is pushed.

Automatic movement

A movement that is all mechanical and requires no winding because the rotor, part of the automatic mechanism, winds the mainspring every time you move your hand. When fully wound and left to sit, most automatics will have up to 36 hours of reserve power. Mechanical movements are accurate within one minute each day.

B

Baguette

Ladies style watch with a thin, elongated face; usually rectangular in shape but may be oval.

Balance-wheel

The regulating organ of the watch, vibrating on a spiral hairspring. Lengthening or shortening the balance-spring makes the balance-wheel go faster or slower to advance or retard the watch.

Bar/lug

A small rod with a sprung pivot at either end to fix the strap (band) to the case.

Base metal

Any non-precious metal.

Battery

Device that converts chemical energy into electricity. Most watch batteries are silver oxide type delivering 1.5 volts. Much longer-lasting lithium batteries are 3 volt.

Battery Life

The minimum period of time that a battery will continue to provide power to run the watch. Life begins at the point of manufacture when the factory initially installs the battery.

Bezel

The surface ring on the watch that surrounds and holds the crystal in place. A rotating ratchet bezel moves in some sport watches as part of the timing device. If rotating bezels are bi-directional, able to move clockwise or counter clockwise, they can assist in calculations for elapsed times.

Bracelet

Flexible metal band consisting of assembled links, usually in the same style as the case. detachable links change the length of the bracelet.

Brass

Copper and zinc alloy used to make the main plate and bridge wheels in the movement.

Buckle

Usually matching the case, it attaches the two parts of the leather strap around the wrist.

Button

Push piece controls, usually at 2 o'clock and/or 4 o'clock on the dial to control special functions such as the chronograph or the alarm.

C

Cabochon crown

A rounded semi-precious stone or synthetic material usually black, fitted into the watch crown as an ornament.

Calendar

A watch feature that shows the date and sometimes the day of the week and the month. It can be displayed through a cut-out window in the dial, as a sud-dial with small hands indicating the day/date feature or by digital readout.

Caliber

The dimensions of the watch. Caliber describes the size and configuration of the movement and can now indicate the shape, origin and constructor as well.

Cambered

Often Used in referring to a curved or arched dial or bezel.

Carat (Karat)

Unit of gold fineness (and gemstone weight). Pure gold is 24k. 18k gold is 75% pure.

Case

The metal housing of a watch's parts. Stainless steel is the most typical metal used but also titanium, gold, silver, and platinum can be used. Less expensive watches are usually made of brass and plated with gold or silver.

Chronograph

A multifunction sport watch with a stopwatch function. Most have two or three sub dials, or minidials, for measuring minutes and hours.

Chronometer

A precision watch that is set in various temperatures and positions, thus meeting the accuracy standards set by an official watch institute in Switzerland. Most watch companies either provide this certificate with a purchase or it can be mailed to you.

Clasp

The attachment used to connect the two ends of the watch bracelet or strap around the wrist.

Deployment Buckle

A three-folding enclosure, which secures the two ends of the bracelet and allows enough room for placing the watch on the wrist when fully deployed. When closed, the buckle covers the two-piece folding mechanism Fold-Over Buckle